A Beautiful Part of The World
Story and photos: The Bear
Someone (I suspect it was I) once wrote that just about every settlement in south-eastern Australia owes its existence to a gold find. Millthorpe in the Central West of New South Wales does not; it owes its establishment to a government stock station, built in 1823. The town is based upon a land grant originally known as Grove Farm which was made out to convict overseer Charles Booth in 1834. The first boost to its prosperity came from the humble spud; its soil was ideal for growing this universally acclaimed tuber.
The next big up did come when gold was discovered, at nearby Ophir in 1851. But far more significant was the arrival of the railway line in 1877 and the consequent construction of a flour mill in the 1880s. Not only did that guarantee the prosperity of the village, it even led to a name change. Out went the rather generic Spring Grove, which had replaced Grove Farm, to be replaced by Millthorpe, meaning mill town. The mill became one of the largest in NSW, and along with potatoes and fruit from the orchards planted in the mid-1800s its production, shipped to Sydney, continued to finance the growth of the pretty little town we have today. The mill closed in the 1960s which made the village a lot quieter…
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Today Millthorpe is a picturesque, compact and historic village set amidst gently rolling hills and outstanding wineries. The town lies on the traditional lands of the Wiradjuri people, sadly now very little in evidence. Classified by the National Trust, it has a number of fine historic buildings, as well as cobbled, bluestone-bordered streets, art galleries, gift and antiques shops, a museum, two hotels, restaurants and cafes, a bowling club and a motel. Despite all the flash it is a friendly and accommodating place for motorcyclists.
It lies 252 kilometres (157 mi) north-west of Sydney and 22 kilometres (14 mi) south of regional centre Orange. Millthorpe's commercial area was extended after the depression of the 1890s and many of its corrugated iron topped brick buildings date from that period. The town's decline after World War I was fortunate in one way: it means that it was spared redevelopment and so many of its buildings have survived with very little alteration.
Millthorpe has very little connection with motorcycling except that Bluey Wilkinson (1911–1940), was born in there. Bluey was an international speedway rider, 1938 World Champion and three times Australian Champion. The town’s attraction for motorcyclists is a combination of its placement just off the Olympic (A41) and Mitchell (A32) highways, both of them popular with long-distance riders, with the exceptional back-roads riding between Temora, Parkes, Dubbo and Mudgee. The back roads form a network of generally good, sealed roads connecting the small towns typical of the region.
Why “generally” good? Sadly, the engineers who did such a good job designing the road network were either not told of or decided to ignore the huge trucks with which we need to share it. No problem in one way: the truckies are polite and often motorcyclists themselves. But their trucks are a different matter, and the road surface is often pushed up into high ridges of broken tar which are capable of pushing a bike right off its line and into the waiting bush. Ask me how I know.
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So care is indicated with the road surface and also with the wildlife, but Millthorpe still makes a really special place to either spend a night on a long ride between the likes of Melbourne and Sydney (no, you don’t want to use the Hume Highway) or to base yourself for an exploration of the Central West. Pub accommodation is reasonably well priced and if you’re travelling with the pillion in a million, the motel is decent value. Dinner at the bowling club’s Sri Lankan-influenced and very affordable restaurant is a winner every time.
Just a little warning on the subject of pillions: in the latter part of the week, the rather classy shops open their doors and the possibility of severe damage to credit cards arises… Millthorpe is in that interesting space between the average nice little country town and the all-in tourist “experience” like Berima or Mogo. There’s plenty to see (and buy) and you can get a decent meal or a drink, but without the crowds. Perfect, really.
Like many of the small settlements in the Central West, Millthorpe has a selection of festivals. On the first Saturday in February that means Millfest, featuring live music on the oval and local food, beer and wine are available to keep you going. On the first weekends of April and December, more than 250 stalls make up the Millthorpe Markets selling handmade goods, vintage wares (junk), art, plants, jewellery, clothing and much more. As country markets go, this is one of the most highly regarded. The Winter Fire Festival lights up the streets on the first weekend in August and the Garden Ramble which is probably of rather less interest to motorcyclists happens on the first weekend in November.
But don’t wait for festivals; plan in a two-day ride from Sydney to Millthorpe, ideally via the back roads south of the Lithgow-Bathurst highway, and enjoy easily one of the best weekend destinations in the State. And no, I don’t get a commission except the knowledge that you’re going to have a good time.